A
guide to help you make it through your first season
This
material is copyrighted because the whole point is to make it readily
available to autocross novices and it is not intended to create a
profit for me and especially not for anyone else. You may copy this
material freely provided that you credit the author and contributors,
mention the copyright and do not charge any fee to your users.
If you wish to copy this information onto your own web-site, I really
prefer if you just link to this site so that your readers will always
have the benefit of the most recent version of this handbook.
Not
I, nor anyone listed in this handbook is responsible for your actions,
despite what you read. Be safe, use common sense, and take
responsibility for yourself.All Sports are inherently dangerous. We
know that, and we play anyway because it's fun. We apply our own
values to the decisions we make about safety and risk within the
rules. Your mileage may vary, therefore you are the only one
responsible and accountable for your choices.
by
Kate Hughes
Glen Region, SCCA
Painted Post, New York
© May, 1996
revised,
March, 1998
With thanks to:
Karl Hughes (Finger Lakes Region) for his novice help
sheets;
Josh Sirota (San Francisco Region) and Andy Hollis (Houston Region)
for course-walking and driving tips;
Christine Johnson (Houston Region) for enthusiastically sharing her
novice program ideas;
Team.Netters - Paul Brown, Sid deLeon, Frank Freda, Stuart Galt, Dan
Hollenbaugh,
Eric Jones, Mark Sirota, and Jim White - for many helpful ideas which
are used in this book;
and Paul Schelling (Glen Region) for patiently proofing.
Reprints are available at a really cheap price consistant
with this copyright from:
Greathead General Printing, 1775 Clifford Avenue,
Rochester, NY 14609 (716) 482-7310.
Table of Contents
All
you need to do is ask. Anyone, anything.
If
they can't help you, they'll point you to someone who can.
What
is Solo II
On
Being a Novice
Description
of the Novice Program
What
to Bring to an Event
What
Happens at a Solo
Registration
Tech
Inspection
Course
Walking
Drivers'
Meeting
Your
Runs
Your
Work Assignments
Fun
Runs
Course
Clean-up
The
Awards
Tech
Inspection Requirements
Working
Rules and Safety
Car
set-up Tips
Course
Walking Tips
Driving
Tips
Solo
Etiquette
How
to Help Out at an Event
The
Rule Book and Classes
PAX
Index
Championship
Points
SCCA
Membership
Beyond
the local Region
Recommended
Reading
Back
To Reality
What
is Solo II
"Solo
II is a precision sport, much like, say, archery, riflery or golf. You
must be precise and consistent, all the while driving so fast you can
barely concentrate" -- Mark Sirota
Solo
II events (also known as autocrosses) are an all forward motion
driving skill contest. Each driver is individually timed to the
thousandth of a second, over a short, miniature road course clearly
defined using traffic cones. Cars compete one at a time, hence the
name "Solo", in a class with similar cars. An event can be
held on any flat paved surface, usually a parking lot, or airport
apron or runway.
Solo
II emphasizes driver skill and vehicle handling rather than just
speed. The corners are tight, and there are lots of them, so the
driving is exciting and challenging. Solo II speeds do not exceed
those normally encountered in highway driving. (This is the main
difference between Solo II and Solo I; where much higher speeds are
attained)
The
skills you learn and practice here; smooth transitions, enhanced
braking, and skid correction, will have an immediate impact on
improving the safety and skill of your street driving. Solo II is an
excellent way to teach car control to young drivers in a safe
environment.
Solo
II is also a very social sport, filled with some of the friendliest
people you'll ever meet. The camaraderie of the drivers is a special
part of autocrossing that is profoundly satisfying.
Cars
are divided into categories and classes. Classes separate cars
by performance, so that VW Rabbits compete against Honda Civics, and
Porsche 911s compete against Nissan 300ZX Turbos. Categories
separate cars according to their level of preparation. Unmodified cars
compete in classes in the Stock category. Cars with modifications to
the suspension, intake or exhaust system, or different wheels and
tires compete in Street Prepared. Cars with engine modifications and
race cars compete in the Prepared category. Cars with different
engines, and open-wheel cars compete in classes in the Modified
category. The complete descriptions of classes and preparation
allowances are spelled out in the Solo II rule book.
The
costs of Solo II competition are reasonable because you can compete in
anything from a real race car to the car you drive on the street every
day. Entry fees are usually $15 to $20 per driver, and two drivers can
share a car.
Sports
Car Club of America (SCCA) sanctioned events are insured through the
SCCA, and are conducted under the watchful eyes of SCCA Safety
Stewards. The rules and guidelines established by the SCCA and
enforced by the Safety Stewards are what makes this one of the safest
motorsports. A day of autocrossing is far safer for both car and
driver than most people's daily commute to work.
Approximately
1100 SCCA sanctioned Solo II events, totaling more than 10,000
competitors, are held each year throughout the country. More people
compete in Solo competition than any other motorsport save drag
racing.
With
so many SCCA regions, rules and programs may differ somewhat between
the regions. For instance, some regions have an extra class for their
national-caliber drivers, some regions drive in morning and afternoon
heats. A quick look at a region's supplemental regulations will
outline local customs. In this handbook I will indicate with RLS (Read
Local Supplementals) those topics which are covered in your local
"supps".
On
Being a Novice
You'll
remember your first event for a long time. The adrenaline that makes
you shake at the start-line before your first run, and the even bigger
surge of adrenaline you feel when you finish. That excitement is part
of the sport, and it's why we all do this.
Don't
let being a novice overwhelm you! Every driver, including the National
Champions, had a first day and a novice season. Autocrossing is a
skill that requires instruction and practice to see improvements. If
it was easy, it wouldn't be so competitive, or so fun. In fact, when
experienced road racers come to Solo for the first time, we often put
them in Novice Class. It's not like falling off a log for them,
either. The great thing about this sport, though, is that even when
you're going "slow", it's still fun driving.
The
course may seem "busy" at first, because it's tighter than
what you see on the street, and you're trying to attack it faster than
you could in traffic. You'll have fun learning the sport and learning
to keep the car in control as you get faster and better with more
seat-time.
With
that said, here are some tips to give you the right novice attitude,
so you don't become discouraged:
Your
goal is to have fun! That's why everyone is here.
Your goal
for the first run is to avoid getting lost on course (see
course-walking tips)
Your goal
for the rest of the day is to improve your time on each run
Your goal
for the second event is the same as the first.
Your goal
for the rest of the season is to beat somebody (anybody!) and continue
to make each run faster than the last.
At
this point, you are learning a lot on each run, and you may be 10
seconds behind the class leader. That's not unusual! You're still
doing OK.
Generally
speaking, the veteran drivers like to help the novices. The magic
words "I am a novice" will get you extra instruction from
other competitors, who can critique your run. Just be careful not to
interrupt a driver on a course walk, or while he or she is
concentrating on going over the course in his or her head. (See the
section on Solo Etiquette.)
Don't
forget, there is a Novice Class Instructor available to answer your
questions and help you get started.
Description
of the Novice Program
The
Novice Program was created to help people new to autocross have fun
from the first event. If this is a new sport for you, you will have
lots of questions. The Novice Chief, the instructors, and the novice
handbook are here to answer them, and to show you some of the basic
skills to get you started (RLS).
The
Novice Class is designed to let all novices compete against each
other, regardless of their car or preparation level. The PAX index is
used to handicap the different classes and categories based on average
performance nationwide. (more detail on the index in a later chapter)
Eligibility
for Novice Class (RLS)
Request
novice classification at registration and it will be noted on your
form. You must request this before the first car is run. Novices
display an N after the class markings on the car, such as ESN or DSPN,
etc.
When
Novices make their runs (RLS)
Novice
class drivers compete only against each other, scored by PAX indexing.
Trophies are awarded for the Novice Class by the same system used for
the open classes; the top third of the class.
Most
importantly, remember this is a Novice Program, a whole package
for instruction and fun. It includes instructors, the handbook, a
guided course-walk and rides with experienced drivers. We want to
answer all of your questions and help you have fun. Please take
advantage of us.
What
to Bring to an Event
This
list covers everything from sunscreen to snacks to tires pressure
gauges. You will probably come up with your own list of things you
need at a Solo event, but this will get you started.
You
must have:
Your
car (although you may share a car with someone else)
Your entry fee A
valid driver's license
You
may want to bring:
-
Your SCCA membership card, to get a discount on entry
fees
-
A safety helmet
-
Extra air in your tires. Stop at a gas station and
fill your tires to approximately
45psi-Front/35psi-Rear for a front-wheel-drive car, or 40psi all
around for a rear-wheel-drive car.
-
Suitable shoes for driving. The best are light-soled,
with a narrow sole which does not stick out past the side of the
shoe
-
Sunglasses
-
Sunscreen
-
Clothes appropriate for the weather forecast, plus a
change for when the forecast is wrong.
-
Rain gear / umbrella
-
A hat
-
A folding chair
-
Thermos of water or other non alcoholic
beverage
-
Cooler for lunch or snacks
-
Windex and paper towels
-
A pad and pencil to write down all the advice you'll
get
-
A copy of the current SCCA Solo II Rule Book
-
A good tire pressure gauge
-
A portable air tank or compressor
-
Chalk or white shoe polish to mark the tires
What
Happens at a Solo
People
begin arriving before registration opens (RLS) so they can unpack
their car, change tires and get ready for the day before registration
begins. It is best to arrive at or before the beginning of
registration so you will have time to register, tech your car, walk
the course, and have ample time to talk to the Novice Chief.
Registration
To
register you must have a valid driver's license and entry fee (usually
$15 to $20). Fill out the information card at the registration area.
They will help choose the class for your car if you don't know what it
is. You will also be assigned a car number for the day. At
registration, you will be asked to sign the insurance waiver. You must
do this to compete, and any guests you bring must sign the waiver
also.
Once
you know your class and car number, mark your car using white shoe
polish on the window (it comes off with Windex), tape paper numbers
inside the window, or use magnetic numbers if you have them.
Tech
Inspection
Your
car must pass tech inspection before you can compete. Read the tech
inspection chapter to see what you'll need to do. Registration may be
at one central area, or at your "pit" space (RLS).
The
tech inspector will sign your card if you pass, or recommend changes
to make the car pass, such as additional tie-downs for the battery or
removal of loose items or hub caps if you've forgotten.
Course
Walking
After
tech, you will have time to walk the course. Before you go, read the
chapter on course-walking tips. Course maps are available at
registration, and the Novice chief will take you on a guided walk
after the drivers' meeting. Try to have the course memorized before
you go on the guided walk.
Drivers'
Meeting
The
drivers' meeting is mandatory for all drivers. The event chair
will hold the meeting approximately one half hour before the first car
starts. Be sure to attend. This is where you will find out information
you'll need to know about the course conditions, number of runs,
particular safety concerns, how penalties are assessed, and how work
assignments will be handled.
At
the end of the drivers' meeting, the Novice Chief will announce the
novice course-walk.
Your
Runs
You
will have a minimum of three timed runs, weather permitting. Depending
on the event, you may get as many as five timed runs. Find out who is
running before you and after you, so you know when to line up (RLS).
Running in order makes the timing people's job easier, and keeps the
event running smoothly, but if someone gets in front of you, or you
are running a little behind, don't worry too much about it. The event
chair will call out which classes are to come to the grid (line of 4-5
cars waiting to run)
Once
you are in grid, you will wait for the cars in front of you to launch,
and you will move up until you are on the start line. A starter will
wave a green flag when it is OK for you to start. The green flag means
go as soon as you are ready, the timer will not start until you pass
through the lights. Don't take too long if we are running two cars on
course at once, because you start is timed to make sure you do not get
too near the car already on course.
If
you do get "lost" on course, take the time to orient
yourself and continue. Don't head back to the start line, because you
may be pointed toward another car. Just take the time to get back on
course, and continue the run as a practice! If the next driver catches
up, they will be red-flagged and be granted a re-run (which they'll
use to its fullest potential).
Times
are posted after each run. Your fastest run of the day is used to
determine your finishing position.
Read
the Driving Tips section for more detail about your runs.
Your
Work Assignments
It's
best to report for your work assignment as quickly as possible when it
is time for you to work (RLS). Otherwise, some people end up working
longer than others, which is no fun. The place to get work assignments
will be announced in the drivers' meeting.
We
try to put a novice with an experienced driver on a station if we have
enough people. For a little bonus instruction, ask your co-worker to
talk about the techniques of the cars on course. Read the chapter on
Working to get more detail on how to call in cones and stay safe while
working the course.
Fun
Runs
If
time permits, fun runs are held at the completion of the event while
trophies are being readied. This is your opportunity to ride with
other drivers and have them ride with you. Fun runs usually cost one
to two dollars.
Course
Clean-up
Once
all the timed runs and fun runs, if any, are complete, everyone helps
clean up the course. This involves bringing in the fire extinguishers
and flags, cones and timing equipment, and storing them in the
trailer. Scoreboards need to be cleaned off and the pit area needs to
be checked for trash. When everyone helps, this can be completed in
fifteen to twenty minutes.
The
Awards
After
the event, following course clean-up, everyone meets for the trophy
presentation. The location for the presentation is usually announced
at the drivers' meeting. The event chair and his/her assistants will
give out results and present trophies to the top third of each class,
plus a trophy for Fastest Time of the Day (FTD) and the PAX challenge
winner; the driver with the fastest indexed time.
Tech
Inspection Requirements
Safety
Helmet:
If you bring your own safety helmet, it must be approved by Snell in
the current or two most recent ratings (e.g. if Snell 95 is in
production then that, 90 and 85 are legal). The club provides loaner
helmets for people who do not have one.
Safety
Belts:
Original safety belts, at a minimum are required. Shoulder belts are
not required, if your car did not come with them, but you must have a
lap belt. Belts must be firmly attached.
Solidly
Mounted Battery:
The battery must be held down properly. If it can be moved at all, it
will not pass. There are some additional battery requirements which
may affect you if you have modified your car. The Tech Inspector will
help you out with them.
Legal
Tires:
In Stock and Street Prepared categories, the tires must have
measurable tread, and must be in good condition. Excessive weather
checks or visible cord/plies will fail inspection. Tire pressures
should be higher than used for the street, usually
45psi-Front/35psi-Rear for a front-wheel-drive car, or 40psi all
around for a rear-wheel-drive car.
Brakes:
The brake pedal must be firm, with no loss of pressure when held down.
Steering
/ Suspension:
The steering must be tight, with no excessive play. Wheel bearings
cannot have excessive play.
Hub
Caps and Trim Rings:
Hub caps, trim rings and wheel covers must be removed for competition,
unless they are bolted to the wheel.
Loose
Items in Car: All
loose items must be removed from the passenger compartment and trunk.
This includes the floor-mats. You may remove the spare tire and jack,
but you are not required to if they are properly secured.
Fluid
Leaks:
Excessive fluid leaks will not pass inspection.
Numbers
and Class Markings:
The car numbers and class markings should be prominently displayed on
both sides of the car in colors that contrast with the paint, and
should be large enough to be seen easily from the timing van. White
shoe polish for marking windows (comes off with Windex ) is available
for people who don't have magnetic or paper numbers.
Adequate
Muffler:
Your car must be quieter than 95dbA (RLS) measured 50 feet from the
course at a place where you are under full throttle. Due to the
possibility of losing sites for noise problems, this rule is strictly
enforced. (If your car is quiet enough to avoid attracting Police
attention, it will most likely pass the noise requirement)
Throttle:
Accelerator pedal must have a return spring and operate freely.
(RLS)
for local tech requirements
You
are not required to have your car registered for street use, but it
must pass tech inspection.
Working
Rules and Safety
Do's
Report
to work promptly.
Make
sure your station has adequate supplies; extra pylons, fire
extinguisher, radio and red flag.
Know
your area of responsibility and station number.
Make
sure cones are in their proper place when you get to your station, and
check them periodically during your shift.
Understand
the pylon rules (Section 7.9 A, B &C in the rule book) e.g.,
pointer cones do not count if hit (see below), and a car is
off-course (DNF for Did Not Finish) if they pass on the wrong side of
a cone.
Pay
attention to cars on course for accurate cone counts and your safety.
It is best to watch the back of the car and the cones
themselves to see the wobbling cone which may have left the box.
Replace
cones as soon as possible, another car will be coming through in as
soon as 30 seconds.
Be
prepared for exposure to sun/rain, wind, heat/cold while on station
Keep
red flag in your hand, unfurled (but not flapping) ready for immediate
deployment.
Stay
alert for unexpected pedestrians and vehicles
Don'ts
Do
not use cameras while on station.
Do
not sit down and do not wander away from your post.
Do
not turn your back on cars on course. Safety First!
Do
not red flag a car unless instructed to do so by the radio person or
if it is an emergency. However, if in doubt, err on the side of
safety!
Do
not litter
Do
not pick up hot parts dropped on course because of risk of burns.
A penalty is given if :
-
If the cone is knocked over and is out of the box.
-
If the cone is knocked over and is in the box.
-
If the cone remains standing but is out of the
box.
A penalty is NOT given if :
-
The cone remains standing is touching the box
-
The cone remains standing and is partially in the
box.
-
And of course, if the cone remains standing within
the box.
Car
set-up Tips
Keeping
things inexpensive, we'll only talk about things you can do for free,
or under $50. After a while, you may want to put more go-fast goodies
on your car, but make sure to read the rule book, and stay legal for
your category.
But
also keep in mind, at this point you can go faster sooner by working
on the driver instead of the car. See the course-walking and driving
tips!
What
you can do Today
Tires:
You've already read that you should put an extra 10 to 15 psi in your
tires. The reason for this is to keep your tires from rolling under
during hard cornering. But how much is too much? Put chalk on the
edges of your tire, in three places around the diameter, and you can
see how far over the tire was going during your runs. Bleed out a
little if the chalk is still showing on the tread, or add a little
more if the chalk has been worn off down the sidewall. The line of
worn chalk to remaining chalk should be right at the corner of the
tread and sidewall. Keep notes on how many psi you ran, and where the
chalk line was, for your next event.
Remember
that as you get better and corner harder, you'll need more air to
compensate, so keep using the chalk at every event.
Driver
Restraint:
In order to have good control in driving, you, the driver, have got to
stay put. So make sure your seat belt is tight and firm. Some people
like to tug hard (fast) on the shoulder strap to engage the lock on
the reel.
Driver
Location:
Most experienced drivers will agree that the best place for your seat
- to give you the best control - is seat forward far enough to have
your leg slightly bent when the clutch is all the way to the floor,
and seat-back reclined or upright to a position that allows you to
rest your wrists on the steering wheel when you shoulders are firmly
against the seat.
This
position allows you to run the full range of steering inputs and foot
motion without stretching or moving in your seat, and can have a huge
impact on your driving skill.
What
you can do before the next event
Alignments
cost $20 to $60, and if you're looking for a cheap way to improve your
solo II set-up, this is a good one.
Some
words of caution, first. Manufacturers set their alignments to what
they consider to be the most predictable and stable settings.
Improving your car's turn-in for autocross may make your car twitchy
on the street. So use your own discretion. To get some suggestions,
though, ask a driver who has a car similar to yours in weight,
wheelbase or front or rear wheel drive.
Course
Walking Tips
"You
must be able to keep track of the course in your head. If you can't,
then you can't drive it to its fullest potential"
Josh
Sirota
That
quote is worth five seconds to a novice. Knowing how to walk the
course is the most important step in being competitive and staying
"ahead" of the course. Usually, you'll want to walk the
course at least three times.
Step
1) Walk the course.
Your first walk will be to get the general layout, and is often a
social walk. Now get away from friends and walk the course alone,
concentrating on memorizing the layout. Think of it in sections, with
key cones marking the turns, such as:
start
straight
slalom
(enter on right)
decreasing
sweeper to the left
"little
snake" then "big snake"
right-hand
curve (look for three pointers)
"thread
the needle section"
tight
right, then tight left
finish
Stop
every now and then and run through the course in your head, from the
beginning to where you are. Get down - the course looks different from
a seated position. This will give you a better picture of what the
course will look like at speed.
Pace
off the distance between cones in a slalom. Some course designers vary
the distance, and it's good to know before you arrive whether you will
have to vary your speed in a slalom. Take a note-pad if you like, and
make notes such as pavement changes, camber change, bumps, sand, etc.
Make
a mental note to yourself (or write it down) how far ahead you will be
looking. When I walk the course, I say to myself, "OK, when I am here
I will be looking there" This will help you to remember to
look ahead while you are driving.
"Repeat
this step over and over until the picture is perfect."
Andy
Hollis - Four-time Pro Solo and Solo II National Champ
How
do you know if the picture is perfect? Sit down by your car and try to
draw the course on a blank piece of paper. Include the key cones you
want to recognize while you drive. If you can't draw the course, you
will want to walk it again. Once you leave the start line in your car,
you should not be spending any time figuring out where the course is.
Step
2) Plan the course.
(Do this while walking the course again) Now decide exactly how
you want to drive the course. Driving the course perfectly involves
two things; coming up with the correct plan, and executing the plan
correctly. If you don't have a plan, you can't possibly know where you
didn't execute it correctly. It's hard to know if you did this step
correctly, but step 4 is something you can work on.
The
plan involves the line you will take through the cones - the quickest
way through. Note, I didn't say shortest. Think about the
characteristics of your car; does it corner better than it
accelerates, or the other way around? That will tell you whether to
slow down so you can get through the corner in control and get on the
throttle as soon as possible, or try to carry speed through to keep up
the revs.
Don't
forget to plan where you will be looking. There is no need to memorize
every cone on the course, only the ones you plan to be near,
the "important" ones. Look from one important cone to the
next in your plan.
Step
3) In Grid.
Before you run, while you are in grid, go over the course again
several times in your head, executing the plan you made before.
Step
4) After the run.
Sit in your car and go over your run. Figure out where you didn't
execute the plan. If the plan was to be near a particular cone, and
you were five feet from it, then you didn't execute the plan
correctly, and a red light should have gone off in your head. Maybe
you need to adjust the plan because you were going too fast in the
slow parts. Decide at this point whether your next run needs to be a
better execution of the plan, or a modification of the plan.
Basically,
don't use the car as an excuse, you will see a big difference in your
times when you drive a course that never surprised you.
Driving
Tips
Seat
time, seat time, seat time. That's the best way to go faster. They
say, "Before you fix the car, fix the driver". That's
because there's so many techniques to improve your driving, it takes
seat time to learn them all, but once you do, someone without those
skills would have to spend a lot of money on their car to beat you,
and probably still couldn't.
Here
are a few techniques to get you started. Don't try to apply them all
in your first run, you'll be too busy. But read through the whole
list, then work at gaining these skills one at a time.
Look
Ahead. I
can't emphasize this enough. I repeat it out loud while I am driving.
It's so easy to forget, but makes such a big impact on my driving. It
all relates to hand-eye (and eye-foot) coordination. Look where
you want your hands to drive you, and look far enough ahead to take
advantage of the feedback. If you're looking at that outside cone that
you're afraid you'll hit, well, you'll hit it. If you're looking ten
feet in front of the bumper, the turns will keep surprising you.
Imagine looking at your feet while you are running on foot! You won't
be very coordinated, and you won't have a good sense of distance or
speed. Same goes for driving hard corners as you do in autocross. Look
ahead. You will be astounded at your performance the first time
you remember to do this all the way through a course.
Slow
Down to Go Fast.
A common problem when you're starting out is trying to take the tight
sections too fast, and not staying in control. I still remember
finishing a run and saying, "Well, I didn't go very fast, but it
sure was smooth," only to find out I'd gone faster by a full
second! Just be patient in the slow spots. They're slow spots, after
all.
Brake
hard in corners.
Go ahead, squeeze the brakes hard. There's no morning coffee on
your dashboard, or eggs in the front seat. Once you decide to slow
down for the corner, don't waste any time. If you find yourself at a
crawl and you're not at the corner yet, why, you've just found out
that you can brake later. Locking up your tires will not make you stop
faster, so squeeze the brakes and let them do the work, not your
tires.
Adhesion.
Don't ask too much of your tires. For any tire/pavement pair, there's
only a certain amount of traction. We'll call that 100% traction. You
can use up that traction with your throttle, your brakes or your
steering wheel. So if you're going into a corner, using 100% of your
traction to make the turn, what happens when you ask for more traction
by applying the brakes? Either you won't brake or you won't turn. Or
both. Same goes for accelerating out of a corner. Ease in the throttle
as you ease out of the turn. So use full throttle and full braking
only in a straight line. This goes back to slowing down to go
faster, and brings us to...
Smooth
Inputs.
You may have noticed that I used the phrases "squeeze the
brakes" and "ease in the throttle". This is where you
have to change your mind-set about inputs to controlling your car. You
need to convince yourself that you can make your car respond better by
squeezing the brakes hard instead of standing on the brakes, by
rolling in the throttle rapidly instead of stomping on the gas, by
turning the wheel quickly instead of cranking it around. Subtle, but
it will show up in how often your car is in control instead of
scrubbing off speed pushing around a corner. And it will take a lot of
practice to become second nature.
Shift
near redline.
On the street, we don't usually shift near redline (high rpms). But in
autocross, you want to be making the most of the power available to
you. You'll learn to hear the motor as you drive and stay in a low
gear longer. Most courses will be in second gear for stock cars. If
you're shifting to third, you're shifting too soon, and giving up
power (ask local drivers if this is true in your region).
Launch
at 4000 rpm.
Each car varies, but try to start at higher rpms than you're used to.
Don't "dump" the clutch, or you'll find your wheels
spinning. Let it out rapidly and find the right rpms to maintain
traction. Higher horsepower cars will want to use lower rpms than less
powerful cars.
Don't
worry
about the blinkers, wipers or horn. You're bound to hit them as you
drive. Don't let it throw you. We've all done it!
More,
Later...
There are many more techniques for getting better times, but start
with the ones listed above. After you've learned them, you'll be ready
to buy a book on autocrossing (see Recommended Reading), or attend a
driver's school and learn the advanced techniques of heel/toe, shuffle
steer, late apex, and more.
Go
to as many events as you can. Go to the ones with the toughest
competition - winning something local is fun, but losing to someone
fast will probably teach you more. Attend drivers' schools in your
area, or travel to another region. Do some Pro Solo2
events; these are explained in more detail later in this book. They
give you 12 runs on a fairly short course, with time to walk between
runs and a chance to drive against real national competition.
Always
remember to have fun, even when you are being stomped by some national
hotshoe. You'll never stop learning - the best drivers will tell you
this still applies after ten or twenty years! Remember, seat-time,
seat-time, seat-time. Nothing will make you go faster sooner. And
nothing is less expensive in improving your times.
Solo
Etiquette
Solo
II is a social sport, and most drivers are happy to give you advice
and critique your runs. Ask someone with a similar car if you may
follow them through a course walk. Maybe they'll even think aloud for
you (don't do too much talking yourself, or you will be making them
walk again). Ask if you can ride with them on a fun-run, and offer to
pay the $1-$2 for the run. If you're not sure when to line up, go
ahead and ask. Ask someone to look at the chalk on your tires to see
whether you need more air. Ask someone to watch your run if they have
time, and tell you what needs changing. They'll be glad to.
There
are a few bad times to ask for advice, though. Here's a quick list:
When
they are walking the course. (They're trying to memorize it.)
When
they are staring into space or have their eyes closed, they're
probably going over their run or plan.
When
they are in grid. They are only thinking about the course.
Sometimes
events will conspire to keep a good driver from competiting. It may be
a broken car, it may be an injury that prevents them from being able
to change tires. This is your chance! Offer that driver a ride
(co-drive) in your car - make it free if you can afford to. So they
use up $20 worth of tires. Not a bad price for a private instructor
all day! I have gone to some of the big events, Tours, Divisionals and
ProSolos and sent out an ad for a co-driver. It has been an enourmous
benefit to have advice from these experts all day, and be able to walk
the course with them.
Try
to help out. There is more work to be done than the mandatory
course-work. This is an all-volunteer organization, so help is always
appreciated. Luckily, this also puts you in a position to talk to
other drivers, because the veterans are helping out, too. If you share
the work, they'll have more time to talk to you. Likewise, showing up
early will help out the registration and tech crew, and give you more
time to walk the course. Read the next section on how to help, if
you're looking for ideas to lend a hand.
Everyone
stays to help clean up the course and pit areas. Keeping the sites is
important to everyone, so leave your pit area cleaner than you found
it.
The
trophy presentation is a continuation of the event, and people talk
about the course or their cars or runs. It's nice to have everyone
show up, to cheer the winners, even if you didn't get a trophy
yourself.
How
to Help Out at an Event
(You
don't have to spend money to help. The region pays for all supplies)
While
you're still a novice:
Arrive
extra early and be a gopher during course set-up.
Help
sweep the course in sandy corners.
Line
the course, or mark the cones.
Fill
and bring water coolers if it might be a hot day
Help
at registration: carry the waiver board through the line, or go
through the line with registration cards and a pen. Check that
everyone has their license and SCCA card out. Identify novices and
give them a novice book.
Offer
to be pre-event gopher. Does someone need to run for lime? Marking
pencils, scoreboard cleaner or batteries?
Get
water/lunch/whatever for the event officials stuck in the timing
trailer or safety.
Corral
people to help clean up, or take a walk through the pit area to pick
up things left behind.
Offer
to stamp and mail the results
See
if the trailer needs supplies between events, then pick them up and
bring them along next time.
When
you get more comfortable with the way things run:
Help
the event chair in calculating results and preparing trophies
Learn
how to tech cars
Learn
timing and scoring.
Be
a novice helper. You can go over course-work with the novices while
the novice chief takes his or her course walks.
Learn
how to set up timing
Get
your safety steward's license.
Get
involved! It's fun to be a part of the action.
The
Rule Book and Classes
The
official SCCA Rule Book is a good investment. It will tell you about
legal modifications, rules on re-runs, and many other topics. You may
look through the region's copy to see what's there.
Almost
all un-modified cars start out in the stock category. There are a few
exceptions, but most people can't afford them. From Stock classes,
each car moves to a designated Street Prepared or Prepared class when
it has modifications made to it, and from there, with more
modifications, on to a Modified class.
Sometimes
cars in different stock classes will end up in the same street
prepared class once they have go-fast goodies added. The reason is
that modifications may equalize the cars. In general, the stock
classes can be listed by stereotype:
SS
Really fast sports cars (Corvette, '93+ RX-7 Turbo)
AS
Powerful sports cars (Various Porsche, MR-2 Turbo)
BS
Lightweight sports cars (Miata, Porsche 914)
CS
Older or heavier sports cars (MR-2, RX-7)
DS
Small coupes, mostly FWD (Neon, Sentra SE-R)
ES
Small coupes & sedans, mostly FWD (Celica, Golf/Jetta)
FS
Muscle cars (Mustang, Camaro/Firebird)
GS
Large coupes & sedans, mostly FWD (Probe, Grand Am)
HS
Everything else (you name it!)
Cars
listed are typical examples, not necessarily the best for the class
and
certainly not all the cars in the class. The stereotypes break down in
the other categories (street prepared, prepared and modified), because
of the allowed modifications to the car. Not all cars go to the same
letter in the next category. The classes for the remaining categories
are listed in the PAX index charts in the next section.
PAX
Index
The
PAX index, calculated each year by the "Professional
Autocross" people (whoever they are) is a commonly used
handicapping system for comparing times of cars which are not in the
same class. The index is composed of data from across the country, and
tries to take the driver out of the equation and compare only the
cars.
These
indices are based on cars prepared to the limit of the rules and
driven by top drivers. (RLS to see the current year's indices, if your
region uses them)
The
index is multiplied against your run time to provide the time you
would have had if you had been in an A-Modified car. It is interesting
to compare the index of one class to another to see how much time you
should gain if you prepared your car to, for instance, Street Prepared
rules. Look in the rule-book to find out where your car would be if
you made modifications. You can also see that alphabetically, higher
cars are not necessarily faster.
A typical
year: 1998
SS
|
0.839
|
AP
|
0.884
|
AS
|
0.825
|
BP
|
0.882
|
BS
|
0.819
|
CP
|
0.863
|
CS
|
0.809
|
DP
|
0.861
|
DS
|
0.804
|
EP
|
0.878
|
ES
|
0.791
|
|
|
FS
|
0.815
|
AM
|
1.00
|
GS
|
0.794
|
BM
|
0.967
|
HS
|
0.788
|
CM
|
0.935
|
|
|
DM
|
0.908
|
ASP
|
0.859
|
EM
|
0.917
|
BSP
|
0.853
|
FM
|
0.905
|
CSP
|
0.85
|
|
|
DSP
|
0.832
|
F125
|
0.965
|
ESP
|
0.83
|
ST
|
0.829
|
Championship
Points
The
Championship Series is the system for year-end trophies. The champion
of each class is the driver with the highest number of points at the
end of the season for that class.
Calculations
for points and eligibility criteria are outlined in the current year's
supplemental regulations (RLS).
Usually,
the points are awarded based on how you finish, or place, in your
class. Often, you must be a member of the SCCA to compete for
Championship points, and you must compete in at least half of the
events in the season. Most regions count your best finishes in 2/3 of
the events, so it helps you to drive in as many events as possible.
There
are also year end trophies for Most Improved Driver and Worker of the
Year. The Championship trophies are awarded at the annual banquet held
by the region, and all members are invited (encouraged!) to attend,
whether receiving a trophy or not.
SCCA
Membership
Membership
in the Sports Car Club of America is a great investment. You receive
discounts on your entry fee at any region's Solo II events, and you
receive the monthly SCCA magazine Sportscar. As a member, you
may hold office and have a voice in running the club.
Membership
is required for year-end Championship trophies (RLS). It is also
required to compete in Divisionals, National Tours, Pro Solos and the
Nationals event in Kansas.
Nationwide,
the SCCA has over 50,000 members. On that strength, the main office
for SCCA in Denver has negotiated special rates for members in
insurance, travel to Nationals, long distance telephone rates and
other, ever-changing programs. You can request information on these
programs from the National Office in Colorado at (303) 694-7222.
Beyond
the Local Region
Your
region is only one of many in a nationwide SCCA Solo II program and
independant autocross organization network. Expert autocrossers will
all tell you that the most important factor in improving your skills
is seat-time, seat-time, seat-time. Most of the local
"hot-shoes" (everything's relative) can be seen at many
events besides their own. But going beyond a local event for the first
time can be confusing and a little intimidating. So here's a summary
of what those other events are like, as a way of introduction. SCCA
Membership is required for any event above the regional (local) level.
Nearby
Regions:
Often a great place to enjoy an event with more cars and deeper
competition, and, in some cases, larger lots and faster courses. A one
to two hour drive to these events will give you an opportunity to tune
your skills, and sometimes steal the trophies from the locals. You'll
see fields of 25 to 200 drivers, depending on the region and event.
Some regions have an annual two-day event where winners are determined
by combining the best time for each day.
Far
Away Regions:
I like to look in autocross publications such as North American Pylon
or Sports Car Magazine for dates and locations of events whenever I'm
traveling. I've met some great people and driven on some exciting
courses all over the country. I haven't been anyplace yet where I
couldn't find an event within a two-hour drive.
Divisionals
are held by each of the eight SCCA divisions. Your own divisional and
neighboring divisions are worth the drive. This two-day event is
offered to determine the champions of each division. They usually
feature locked pit areas for overnight storage. There's money as well
as prestige on the line, from contingency sponsors (you use their
product and advertise it on your car) like BFG, Yokohama, Mazda,
Chrysler and others. Winners are determined by combining the best
times for each of the two days of competition. 100 to 200 drivers is
common.
National
Tours:
This sponsored, nationally run series is held six times per year at
sites across the country. It is designed to be a traveling look at The
Nationals. A two day event; the best times for each day are combined
to determine the winners. This is a great opportunity for newer
drivers, as an all-day novice school is held the day before, with
national champions as your instructors. Once again contingency
sponsors offer cash prizes, as well as trophies. Expect to see 100 to
200 drivers.
The
Nationals:
The largest U.S. motorsports event, held each year in
September. Our current home for the nationals is Topeka, Kansas. This
is the Mecca of autocross, and for any car enthusiast, a must-see.
Each driver competes over two days, but if you have the time, stay for
the whole show, as it takes four days to get through over nine
hundred drivers.
The
paddock area is a treat to tour, and see exotic cars, unlikely cars,
classic cars and meet their drivers. Even knowing that your first trip
is unlikely to yield a trophy, this is a delightful event which
includes award banquets, a talent show, and more bench-racing than
you've ever experienced.
There
are also some "side shows" like the Neon Super Solo
sponsored by Chrysler and held the Friday before competition, The Skid
Pad Challenge sponsored by the Tire Rack to determine the car capable
of the highest lateral Gs, and a "warm-up" event held by the
local Kansas region the weekend before the competition. Read below to
learn about the Pro Solo2 Finale, held at the same time as
the warm-up, for those competing for the Pro title.
Pro
Solo2:
A twist on the solo II format, the Pro Solo2 features two
cars simultaneously on mirror-image courses, starting from a
drag-strip-style light "tree". The courses are shorter,
forty seconds or so, but each driver gets six attempts on each
"side" over the course of two days. Pro Solo2 combines
the driving skill of solo II with the wheel-to wheel thrill of drag
racing.
Winners
are determined in two ways, by class, during the event, and by single
elimination runoff for the "Challenge" in four categories;
Open, Club (novice), Ladies, and Ladies Club, with prize money for
each category and class. There are ten Pro Solo2 events
held at various sites across the country during the year.
Winners
accumulate points toward the championship which culminates in the Pro
Solo2 Finale at the same site as, and the weekend prior to,
the Solo II Nationals. Many of the faces and cars you see at Tours and
Divisionals also drive in the Pro Solo2 series. There are
usually 100 to 200 drivers.
Pro
Solo2 Finale:
This final event of the Pro Solo2 series counts as 1.5
events in points. Since most (all?) of the competitors also drive in
Solo II, they are held in the same week in Topeka. Oh, yes, there's
money involved here, too.
Recommended
Reading
Secrets
of Solo Racing
by Henry A. Watts
Prepare
to Win,
Tune
to Win,
Engineer
to Win,
and
Nuts Bolts and Fasteners all by Carroll Smith
How
to Make Your Car Handle
by Fred Puhn
Back
to Reality
You've
had a blast driving in the Solo II event. The adrenaline was high,
you're ready for another event. You can't wait to start improving your
skills. Before you leave, lower your tire pressures to recommended
levels for street driving. Don't forget to check when and where the
next Solo II will be held! Then spend some time reading through this
handbook again before the next event.
Driving
in Solo II is a real thrill. But don't forget when you leave the
course, that you're in traffic again. Take your new car control skills
with you for emergencies, and obey all road laws. Save your spirited
driving for Solo, where it's legal!
There's
Kryptonite out there, Superman.
Content
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